Suit terminology, defined
Made-to-measure vs bespoke vs custom
Bespoke suits are cut from a pattern drafted from scratch for one person, with several fittings and largely hand construction. Made-to-measure adjusts an existing base pattern to your measurements with industrialised precision — a personal fit in a fraction of the time and cost. Off-the-rack is pre-made in standard sizes. Centi Sartoria is a 400-tailor Shanghai atelier producing made-to-measure suits in premium European cloth, factory-direct, in about ten working days.
The three methods, side by side
| Bespoke | Made-to-measure | Off-the-rack | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pattern | Drafted from scratch, unique to one wearer | An existing base block adjusted to your measurements | Standard graded sizes (38R, 40L…) |
| Fittings | Several, including a basted try-on | One measurement session; refinements over later orders | None — off-the-peg, alterations optional |
| Construction | Hand-canvassed, largely hand-sewn | Full- or half-canvas available, machine-led precision | Usually fused or half-canvas |
| Lead time | 8–12+ weeks | ~10 working days at Centi Sartoria | In stock |
| Relative cost | Highest | Mid — a fraction of bespoke | Lowest |
| Best for | One-off showpieces, Savile Row purists | Brands & wearers wanting a personal fit at scale | Immediate, budget-led needs |
Lead time and minimum-order figures are Centi Sartoria's; bespoke and off-the-rack figures are industry typical.
Glossary
The terms a brand or buyer meets when sourcing tailoring.
- Bespoke
- A garment cut from a pattern drafted individually for one client, with multiple fittings and largely hand construction. The most exacting — and slowest and most expensive — method. The word originally meant cloth that had been "spoken for."
- Made-to-measure (MTM)
- An existing base pattern (a "block") adjusted to an individual's measurements and style choices, produced with industrialised precision. It delivers a personal fit far faster and cheaper than bespoke, and can still be built full-canvas. This is what Centi Sartoria produces.
- Custom
- A loose marketing umbrella that usually means made-to-measure, but sometimes only means choosing options (cloth, lining, buttons) on a fixed base. Always ask which one a maker means.
- Off-the-rack / Ready-to-wear (RTW)
- Pre-made in standard graded sizes and sold from stock, with optional alterations. The fastest and cheapest route, with the least personal fit.
- Full canvas
- A construction in which a layer of horsehair/wool canvas is floated through the whole jacket front, letting it mould to the body over time. The hallmark of a high-quality suit.
- Half canvas
- Canvas runs through the chest and lapels only; the lower front is fused. A balance of structure, drape and cost — common in quality made-to-measure.
- Fused
- The interlining is glued to the cloth rather than stitched. Cheaper and lighter, but can bubble over time and lacks the natural roll of a canvassed chest.
- Pattern block
- A maker's master template for a size or fit, used as the starting point for made-to-measure adjustments rather than drafting a new pattern from zero.
- Private label
- Goods a manufacturer produces under the buyer's own brand name. A boutique or emerging label can sell designer-grade suits as its own line without owning a factory.
- OEM / white label
- Original-equipment manufacturing — a factory makes to a brand's specification (OEM) or supplies a generic product the brand badges as its own (white label).
- MOQ (minimum order quantity)
- The smallest order a factory will accept. High MOQs lock out small brands; Centi Sartoria's made-to-measure MOQ is one suit.
- Ex-factory
- A price quoted as the garment leaves the factory, before freight, duties and any middleman margin — the most transparent way to compare manufacturing cost.
- Lead time
- The interval between a confirmed order and the finished garment leaving the workshop. Centi Sartoria's is roughly ten working days.
- Basted fitting
- A bespoke try-on of a loosely tacked-together jacket, used to mark adjustments before it is taken apart and finished. Made-to-measure usually skips this step.
Common questions
Is made-to-measure the same as bespoke?
No. Bespoke is cut from a pattern drafted from scratch for one person, with several fittings and largely hand construction. Made-to-measure adjusts an existing base pattern to your measurements with industrialised precision — a personal fit at a fraction of bespoke's time and cost. Centi Sartoria produces made-to-measure, and it can still be built full-canvas.
What's the difference between custom and made-to-measure?
"Custom" is a loose marketing term. Often it simply means made-to-measure; sometimes it only means picking options (cloth, lining, buttons) on a fixed base size. Made-to-measure specifically means a base pattern adjusted to your individual measurements. When a maker says "custom," ask whether the pattern is adjusted to you.
Is made-to-measure worth it over off-the-rack?
If fit matters, yes. Off-the-rack is built to a standard size and rarely fits the shoulders, chest and waist of the same body equally. Made-to-measure adjusts the pattern to your measurements, so the fit is personal — and at Centi Sartoria it ships in about ten working days, in premium European cloth, factory-direct.
Can made-to-measure be full canvas?
Yes. Canvas construction (full or half) is independent of whether a suit is bespoke or made-to-measure. A good made-to-measure house builds a canvassed chest — the floating horsehair-and-wool layer that lets the jacket mould to the body — rather than gluing a fused interlining.
How long does a made-to-measure suit take?
It depends on the maker. Bespoke typically runs 8–12+ weeks. Centi Sartoria's made-to-measure production is roughly ten working days from a confirmed order, because the pattern is adjusted from a block rather than drafted and fitted from scratch.
What's the minimum order for made-to-measure?
It varies by factory — many set high minimums that lock out small brands. Centi Sartoria's made-to-measure minimum is one suit, so an individual, a boutique or an emerging label can order a single piece or build a private-label line without committing to bulk.
Make it under your own label
Centi Sartoria builds designer-grade made-to-measure suits factory-direct, from a one-piece minimum — for individuals, boutiques and brands.