The Margin Table
Five house cloths, four ways to build the jacket, and what each specification already sells for on other makers' own configurators. Enter your email once and the same page turns into your cost, your freight, and what is left after you set the price.
Five Cloths
The spec below is exactly what is in the sample book, so a buyer can check it against the book itself. British merino, at 360g, is the heaviest cloth we hold, the one to reach for when a client's cold season runs long. Lana, at 280g, is the one that works through all four seasons instead.
| Cloth | Sample book | Spec | Market retail band |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lana | Corsini LANA Four Season | 280g four-season Australian merino, 100% wool | $799 to $895 |
| Studio wool | Nobility 100W All Seasons | 280g four-season suiting, 100% wool | $873 to $1,730 |
| House merino | New Empire | 280g, 100% merino wool, fine-worsted spec | $873 to $1,730 |
| British merino | Heritage | 360g, 100% merino wool, the heaviest cloth we keep | $923 to $2,145 |
| Vitale Barberis Canonico | Four Seasons | Held in Shanghai, 40 styles, cut the week you confirm | $799 to $1,995 |
These are published prices on four self-serve made-to-measure configurators, checked August 2026. We do not set your retail price and we do not sell to your customers, so read this band as the market you are pricing into, not an offer from us. Which four houses, and what each one actually charges for this spec, sits behind the form further down this page.
Four Builds
Same jacket, same cloth, four different chests. None of it shows on a hanger. All of it shows on the client's shoulder by year three.
No canvas. The chest piece is fusible interlining, bonded to the wool with heat and adhesive instead of sewn. It is the fastest of the four builds and the flattest lapel at the first fitting. The bond is also what fails: enough seasons at the dry cleaner and the glue line shows through the chest as a bubble that will not press out.
Canvas runs from the collar through the chest and lapel, then stops in a curve above the waist. Below that curve the front is fused, the same as the entry build. The canvas sits exactly where a jacket moves most, when a client reaches for a door or sits down, so the money goes where the wear happens.
Canvas floats from the shoulder to the hem, sewn rather than glued, so nothing in the front can bubble or come apart at the cleaner. The lapel is pad-stitched by machine: rows that repeat evenly and quickly, which is why this build costs less than the one below it.
The same floated canvas as the machine-padded build, shoulder to hem, but the chest and lapel roll are pad-stitched by hand instead. Hand rows sit looser and less regular than a machine's fixed tension, which is what rolls the lapel instead of creasing it, and why the labor on this build runs the longest of the four.
Your Numbers
Tell us who you are and the same five cloths and four builds above turn into your cost, your freight, and what is left once you name a price, plus the named houses and links behind every market band on this page.
One-time unlock. We do not add you to a mailing list.
Cloth is your own cost. Add it before you calculate your multiple.
No minimum order. Freight drops per suit as the order grows.
Defaults to four times your cost, a common starting multiple, not a price we are telling you to charge. You set this number. We do not.
Excludes your country's import duty and VAT.
Send us a question or place a first sample order. No minimum, and most partners start with a single suit.
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