Shanghai and Suzhou, China: made-to-measure for foreign shops
Where Centi Sartoria is
Shanghai is where the Hongbang tailors set up, and it is still where China's made-to-measure factories for export sit, with Suzhou's textile district nearby. The model here is different from the volume belt: one garment cut to one set of measurements, under the shop's or the brand's label, in imported cloth, shipped to the shop rather than to a warehouse. Qingdao, further up the coast, runs the same model at a larger scale, which is where Kutesmart and Steven Tailoring are.
Centi Sartoria is a Shanghai factory founded in 1996 with 200 house tailors. We make from a one-piece minimum in 14 days in production, plus shipping, in fused, half-canvas or full-canvas construction, from a catalogue of 1,000+ fabrics drawn from 33 cloth mills and merchants, 26 of them in Europe. A two-piece suit starts at 100 US dollars if you send your own cloth, which is the CMT route, and at 155 US dollars if we supply the cloth. Both are ex works Shanghai. Freight is quoted separately and you pay import duty at your own rate. Above the starting point the price moves with the cloth and the level of make.
Two numbers get confused whenever a factory talks about its size, so we keep them apart. What actually leaves the building is about 3,000 suits a month, roughly 1,500 to Europe and 1,500 to the United States. What the line could take is up to 100,000 garments a year, which is what 200 tailors at two to three garments a day comes to. The first is today's volume. The second is the ceiling, and it is the reason a single-piece order does not end up queued behind somebody else's bulk contract.
A sizing tool suggests a full set of measurements from height and weight, and the shop corrects any figure it wants, or sends tape measurements or reference photos instead. Stores that prefer paper can fill in a printed order form and key it in later.