VOL. I · EST. 1996
Craft perspectives from the Shanghai atelier.
A buyer asking for something heavier for winter is asking for a number, not a season. What 320 gram cloth changes at the cutting table, in the canvas, and in the finished drape, from a factory that carries 98 to 440 grams.
Since relaxed tailoring took over the spec sheets coming into our atelier, 'natural shoulder' has become the most common phrase we get with the least agreement on what it means. Three questions we ask before we cut anything, and what the term actually changes.
Wide-leg trousers are back on the order sheets, and most buyers spec the change as a bigger leg opening. On our cutting table it is a rise decision first. What the pattern actually needs, and the field online forms leave out.
A shop's first double-breasted order usually arrives on a single-breasted spec sheet with the front style typed over. Four numbers do not transfer: lapel width, the buttons that actually fasten, the cloth carried across the chest, and the canvas underneath it.
Three-piece orders are arriving with a fully specified jacket, a fully specified trouser, and a waistcoat carrying almost no information at all. The third piece is cut from measurements collected for the other two, and it is the one garment that cannot hide the gap.
Tweed, bouclé and flannel are replacing flat worsted as the AW26 story, and shops are ordering them into a lean block unchanged. A textured weave changes matching, cloth consumption and construction, not just the surface. What to put on the spec sheet before you cut.
Searches for relaxed tailoring are up more than fivefold on last year, and the easy fit is the look of autumn 2026. The mistake shops make is ordering it one size up. What relaxed actually means on a pattern, and what to put on the spec sheet.
Generic apparel guides assume sized goods a returns label can fix. A suit brand sells fit itself, measured by the customer alone with a tape measure. What that changes, and who should walk away from the category.
Most tailoring business plans are written for a bank and never opened again. Here is the version that runs a shop: the break-even count, and what to do the month you run out of time rather than money.
Hand padding changes the tension in a canvas panel, not its quality. A guide to where that difference actually shows in a jacket, and the much larger part of it where paying for a hand doesn't buy anything a customer will ever feel.
A first sample proves whether what a factory told you matches what they made. A working checklist for what to verify before you place a larger order, and an honest list of what one sample can never prove.
Fused construction earned its bad name honestly, but the defect behind it was a mismatch of glue, press and cloth, not a flaw in the category itself. Where fused is the correct choice, where it still is not, and what the difference actually costs.
Fused, half canvas and full canvas describe what is inside a jacket, not whether a hand touched it. A retailer's guide to the second question almost nobody asks before pricing a construction ladder.
Referring a client to a tailor costs you nothing if the suit disappoints. Selling it yourself changes what you are risking, and it is not the margin. The honest version, including who should not do this.
Every guide to choosing a made-to-measure suit manufacturer is written by someone who wants to be chosen, including this one. Here is the test to run on any supplier, the four supplier types compared honestly, and where we are not the right fit.
Every no-stock suit brand pitch already solves the inventory question. Whether one survives its first year comes down to three other things: measurement, the landed cost of a suit once freight and duty are in, and whether you should start yet.
Dressing twenty people for one day is a deadline problem before it is a tailoring one. What actually breaks a corporate made-to-measure programme, and how to plan around it.
Full canvas earns its price on cloth with enough body to hold a shape, not on the name of the construction. A cutting-room case for when it is worth paying for, when it is not, and what actually breaks when you try to scale the hand work behind it.
Everyone says they use Italian cloth. Almost nobody can prove it. Here is how a buyer checks, including how to check on us.
Margin is the easy part and it is not what kills these programmes. The real arithmetic is velocity, dead capital in samples, and who on your floor can take a measurement.
A single-piece minimum does not remove the risk of starting a label. It shifts the risk from cash tied up in stock to the attention each order takes when you run them one at a time.
Private label, white label, OEM and CMT get used loosely enough to mean whatever a factory needs them to mean that day. Here is what each one actually implies, and the one question about who owns your pattern that decides more than any of the four words do.
Multi-door quality problems get blamed on the factory almost every time, and that is rarely where the problem starts. Ten stores means ten pairs of hands taking a measurement, not one method. What to fix before you add a ninth or tenth door.
Your flights and hotels are not marketing spend. They are a cost carried by every garment you write on that trip, and most travel tailors never put them in the model.
What actually happens when you order your first made-to-measure suit: why it will not fit perfectly on the first try, and what to get right on fabric weight, construction, and timing before you order.
A made-to-measure suit factory's read on Pitti Uomo 110, soft tailoring, high-twist summer cloth, colour, low-inventory models and made-to-order, and what each trend means for anyone launching a tailoring brand.
Walked Pitti Uomo 110 and left wanting to build your own tailoring label? Here is the realistic path from a stand you loved to a launched made-to-measure suit line. Fabric, minimums, sampling and cost.
Want to contribute? Have a question about our collections or process?
Get in Touch